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Many safe, useful, nonchemical approaches of plant defense and insect management may lower or get rid of the need to spray. Other techniques are most helpful when used with pesticides. To implement management practices correctly and to decrease losses, gardeners should know the kinds of bugs that attack plants and comprehend pest biology.


Pest management methods fall under four groups: cultural, mechanical, biological, and chemical. Keeping plants healthy and avoiding plant tension assists plants to much better stand up to and repair the damage triggered by a pest or mite pest. Some evidence indicates that healthy plants withstand problem by insects better than plants with low vigor.

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Many serious illness or insect issues can be stopped or slowed by regularly going to the garden, knowing what to try to find, recognizing possible issues, and stepping in early. Cultural techniques of reducing insect and mite issues in the landscape include preparing the soil; picking plants that are adapted to the site conditions, that are not attractive to bugs, which are tolerant of bugs and diseases; rotating crops; interplanting; timing planting dates to prevent pests; handling weeds; and planting "trap" crops.


If tilling is considered essential, consider doing it in the fall when the life process of numerous pests brings them near the surface. At the surface, pests become exposed to the weather in addition to birds and other natural opponents. Fall tilling can also ruin pests in crop residues. Usage disease-free and insect-free licensed seeds and plants if available.

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Examine plants thoroughly (tops of leaves, bottoms of leaves, stems, and soil) before planting to be sure they are tidy. Consider planting recognized as resistant to bugs. Resistant cultivars are those that repel, are unappealing to, or otherwise disagree as food for particular bugs or that hold up against feeding by certain pests with little decrease in yield or quality.


If deer are a problem in a garden, pick a plant that is naturally resistant to deer predation over a plant that is more appealing to deer. For example, a native downy hawthorn (Crataegus mollis) would be a much better choice than an Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis). Planting two similar crops in successive years tends to increase pest problems.

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Some insects hibernate in the soil or litter around plants or lay eggs in or on the host plant. Do not grow the very same kind of vegetable in the very same place each year (Figure 84). Use related crops in a site just once every 3 or 4 years. The rotation duration for preventing some tomato diseases might be 5 to seven years.




Crop rotation is most efficient on bugs that establish on a few plants. Bugs that end up being extreme on cabbage probably likewise infest nearby mustard, broccoli, and collards, but they may not spread why not find out more out to cabbage planted on the other side of the garden.

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Interplanting can also slow the spread of diseases, giving the gardener more time to establish a management method. Marigolds and garlic are two plants suggested as insect repellants; nevertheless, the majority of these suggestions are unverified. Sometimes, the evidence shows these plants are not efficient repellants. Some bugs do not overwinter locally but move from southern states each year.


The flowers of thistle, plantain, knotweed, and dandelion are very important to honey bee populations. Getting rid of weeds after blooming but before seed set supplies food for the honey bees however keeps the weeds from continuing to spread. Another way to handle insect bugs is to plant a crop that is extremely appealing to bugs and internet then deal with the trap crop with insecticide.

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Crop rotation is an important cultural approach for decreasing insect and disease concerns, however lots of garden enthusiasts do not have the room to sufficiently implement this practice. Where space is restricted, it might be best to allow the garden to lay fallow for a year or more or more. Think about raised beds with new soil or plant in containers when you understand an illness problem exists.




Nearly any large non-venomous bug can be picked off at any phase. To prevent the job of hand-squashing the bugs, knock the bugs and egg clusters into a coffee can or quart container with a small quantity of water and a little dish cleaning agent. Insect traps can assist with detection and management.

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Also, these traps do not capture some wingless species, as well as those types active only throughout the day (diurnal) as opposed to active throughout the night (nighttime). Pheromone traps are utilized for finding the presence of pests or in some cases article for disrupting insect mating habits. Adult women produce and release a chemical smell appealing to males of the exact same types.


The best success occurs when the insect density is low and movement into the location is very little. Some physical traps are easy to make from materials around the home.

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Mix 1 quart of clay with 2 gallons of water and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap in a sprayer. Continuously agitate the sprayer to avoid clumping of the clay. Reapply every one to 3 weeks. This barrier is preventive; it will not work if an insect bug is currently developed. commercial disinfecting in Medford.


Some insects, such as the azalea stem borer and the dogwood club gall (Figure 813), can be managed by pruning contaminated branches out of plagued plants and damaging them. If twigs infested with dogwood branch borers are pruned in late spring or early summertime, the plants should still flower with no problem the following spring.